君子不器

A Ku Indeed!

Mission 6: Italian Bread (Ugh)

This week I set myself the (overly ambitious) challenge of making some Italian bread. The immediate reason is obvious: the bread made by the local indigenous population — they call it “Italian Bread” too — is really a loaf of Wonder Bread pulled out to look more oval shaped. It’s so damn awful I have a hard time coming up with the right words to describe it. So it’s no surprise that it’s on my Goombah Gourmet list. However, try as I did to reconstruct Italian Bread this weekend, I failed. Miserably. Three times. I have clearly met the enemy in baking bread. I may have gone down in flames this time, but three battles doesn’t decide a war. I’ll be back after I’ve licked my wounds (and read some decent material on baking Italian bread).  I outline the disaster below.

RESULTS: Presentation – 2; Goombaliciousness – 3

The Goombah’s Waterloo: Italian Bread

I’m not going to bother talking about what I did, and describing what ingredients I put together and how, because nothing seemed to work right. It was a disgrace. So instead I’ll just detail the different forms that the disasters took. There were three of them, though the last try wasn’t really all that bad, to be honest. But still a failure. When the store bought Italian Bread from Stop and Shop starts to sound good, you know you blew it.

Try #1: I Wouldn’t Feed This to My Dog

I Shoulda Seen This Would Be a Problem

The first time I tried to make the bread I used a recipe from an Italian site that I won’t mention (since the bread was a joke). I did everything just the way the site said — to the T. I was meticulous, like a scientist. The only thing I didn’t have were Bunsen Burners and test tubes. I measured out and followed to the gram every ingredient, every instruction…everything. But it didn’t seem to matter what I did: the dough wouldn’t come out right. On this occasion, it seemed too hard. Whereas it was supposed to be “soft and silky” mine was more “hard and coarse.” At first I figured maybe the author of the recipe just used words in a different way than me. Hey, you never know. So I kept on moving forward, figuring that one man’s “silky” is another man’s sandpaper. I did what I was told, and after letting the dough “rise” for an hour (not much actually happened), I shaped the pieces and then “proofed” them (let them rise a second time).

When I came back 1 hr later, I had a hard time figuring out what had changed from before. My dough wasn’t moving anywhere. Maybe this guy also had a different understanding of “rise”. At the very least, the misunderstandings were piling up fast. There was nothing I could do, though, so I baked the sucker. It barely moved in the oven. No rise at all. This dough was happy the way it was. When I saw no oven action, I knew this wasn’t going to turn out good. I was screwed. With a sigh I just let the bread do it’s thing. Here’s the result.

Doesn't Look Too Bad, But That's as Far as It Goes

When I took them out, I actually held a ray of hope. They didn’t look too bad. They were skinny and didn’t rise at all, but they actually didn’t look so bad. Hmm…maybe I had misjudged it? Nope. I tried to press down on the bread, and it was hard as a rock. There was no crust because the whole loaf was crust. It was solid. A Goombah could use these as blunt force trauma weapons.

Despair started to set in (not like the kind you get from reading Kierkegaard, but despair nonetheless). I had followed the directions, but to no avail (that actually does sound Existential). What was I going to do? Well, the first thing I was going to do was to get this hard work to someone who would appreciate it. Gus.

Is This All for Little Old Me?

When I gave Gus the loaf, he was clearly happy. He stared prancing around with it in his mouth, proud of his big loaf of bread, all for him. I felt good — at least he’d enjoy this batch of weapons bread. Then I saw him through the back window, burying the loaf in the backyard. Yep. Burying it. Afterward, he went back into the garage and laid down. Either he was so excited by the bread he wanted to hide it from other animals, or he figured it needed to be put deep into the earth, quick. I wasn’t sure which. So I gave him another one.

I Know What to Do with This Thing

This time, Gus walked about 20 feet into the yard, dropped the loaf, and promptly walked back to the garage and laid down. It wasn’t even worth his time to bury the fuc*&r. I had one more loaf to go. I called Gus and when he came up to the door, I extended my hand with the loaf and he didn’t even try to grab it like the last two times. He just sat there looking at me. I dropped the loaf on the garage floor in front of him and he looked down at it and then turned away, walking back to his bed. When things get this bad, you know you’re in trouble.

Try #2: Big(a) Up Yourself

I was so mad that I insisted I would try again. Fall off the bike, get back on again. So I read some dough troubleshooting sites quickly and determined that what I needed was a biga. This is a yeast-flour starter that you allow to activate all night long before you mix all your ingredients. Yeah, that’s why my dough didn’t rise. No biga. What an idiot that guy was from the other bread site. No biga! Every Goombah needs a biga! So Saturday night I made one, and left it out all night so that on Sunday morning I could whip up my well rising dough and be in bread heaven all day long.

The Glory of the Biga

Okay, bigas look disgusting, but it’s yeast so what do you expect. Anyway, they are supposed to work to get that dough rising so I don’t care if it’s ugly, as long as it works. So the next day I mixed up my biga (which grew nice overnight) and the rest of the ingredients. I then set it aside for the 2 hours required and waited for it to rise up. Two hours later: it hadn’t moved a centimeter. Maybe I need to play some motivating Bob Marley while I do this (like “Get Up Stand Up” or just “Uprising”).

I mean, WTF? Clearly my biga had no mojo. Frantically, I Googled to figure out what the heck went wrong. All I could figure out was that my dough rise locations were not warm enough (which might have been true). So I took the dough and put it near the space heater. Thirty minutes later it had a hard skin. Result?

Big P said: "This doesn't smell good"

Look at that dough. Could anything else be more pathetic? That’s got to be the saddest wad of bread dough I’ve ever seen. I felt totally defeated. Only one thing to do:

I never looked into the trash after I tossed it in, but I’ll bet anything that the SOB rose and doubled in size while it was in the garbage.

Try #3: I’m Not Giving Up!!

I went nuts the third time. I departed from the recipe and flew on intuition.Flour was flying everywhere. I was laughing maniacally. If it didn’t feel right, I made adjustments on the fly. I wound up adding 30% more flour than called for by the recipe. Result? Well, the dough was way too sticky (still not enough flour?) and rose a bit more than before, but no where near what it was supposed to do. Maybe yeast just doesn’t work in my house for some reason.

Eh...Getting There Anyway

They came out better this time. Eatable anyway. The crust was there, but it just didn’t have the pizazz a bread needs. It was too thin, and not airy enough inside. Gus would probably eat these instead of burying them or leaving them in the middle of the yard though. That’s a plus. I’m regrouping and moving to something else for a bit. I need to read up on baking. Clearly this is an enemy that you need to study for a while. There will clearly be no quick victories here. As the Terminator says, “I’ll be back.”

————

RESULTS: Presentation, 2: Goombaliciousness, 3

I’m just going by the last batch here. Considering that I made three loaves and two of them are still — 24 hours later — sitting in the kitchen, the goombaliciousness can’t be very high. The loaf that was eaten was not eaten with much zest either.  On presentation – how can you hope for anything decent when your dough doesn’t even rise? Bah: 2.

I think the bread at Superfresh is a 3 and a 3, so I’m even underneath that. What a disgrace.

9 Comments

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Pingback by A Ku Indeed! » Archive » Mission 6: Italian Bread (Ugh) Help on 2010?01?25? 8:14 am


Where are you letting it rise? Its really important with Italian bread that it rises in a warm place. We always put it in the bathroom & close the door. And do you pound it down & then let it rise again? Kneading it is really important, but you can’t work it too much or it won’t rise in the oven! Also putting it in a small braid to bake helps too. Haha & you will ALWAYS need more flour!

Comment by Estein on 2010?01?25? 10:02 am


Emily:

Not enough warmth was definitely part of the issue on tries #1 and #2. But not on #3. I put it in a small room with a space heater, and the room was about 80 degrees the whole time it was in there. That should be plenty of heat, I’d think.

Yup, I pounded. I dough-hook mixed. I did everything.

The next time it definitely needs more flour, though: recipe called for 3, I can’t imagine at this point using any less than 4.

Comment by Chris on 2010?01?25? 10:18 am


Chris Depending on your warmth issue, you can turn on your oven at 200 degrees and let the bread rise on top of the stove covered, this should give you at least 90 degrees which allows the bread proper rise. Remember with bread less is more add a little EVOO can’t believe I’m using that term ugh!!! to the bowl, which allows the dough not to stick…

Comment by Pastry Chef Ed on 2010?01?25? 5:52 pm


My girlfriend said that bread-making (baking in general) is really more of a science than an art. So what you need to do if you want to get serious about making bread is get a kitchen scale and a thermometer. Measuring by volume is inaccurate and creates a lot of problems for the home baker. Likewise, yeast works best at certain temperatures and unless you can give the yeast what they need, they can’t give you what you need.

It makes sense to me. Hope that helps.

Comment by justsomeguy on 2010?01?26? 10:31 am


Ed:

I’m going to give that one a try. I put the last attempt (#3) in a small room with a space heater, but it could be that this didn’t get the room up high enough, temperature wise. I’m going to try again on Sunday and I’ll report what happens (or doesn’t). Thanks!

JSG:

Oh boy, I know it’s a science. Cooking is more art. You can tell the difference afterward when you screw up – when you bake and make a mistake, you think “yeast didn’t activate? water too warm?” or “room not hot enough for rising” or “I added too much salt…killed the yeast!”

Basically, you get turned into a kitchen scientist, trying to figure out how all your variable interact. You don’t do that so much with cooking. There’s a wider degree of freedom to it.

I have both the candy thermometer and the scale, so I’m already there. However, I’ve been measuring by volume, which like she says (and sounds right to me) doesn’t seem right for dry goods. I’m going to figure out what the gram/cup conversions are and do it that way on Sunday.

I’ll report back on Sunday to say whether I had any success.

Thanks, everyone!

Comment by Chris on 2010?01?26? 2:26 pm


Bread is … hard. I’ve never gotten a pre-ferment to work. And most of the advice you get online is contradictory. I think it may involve magic.

Comment by Adam on 2010?01?26? 3:39 pm


I haven’t yet shown my g/f your post, I just said that “a buddy” was having trouble with bread.

But as a brewer and a scientist, I can say that a candy-thermometer isn’t calibrated for bread-work.

She needs to know what kind of yeast you are working with. That is important. And the temperature of the dough should be around 77 degrees (F) and the only way to do that is to adjust the water temperature. And the way you need to do that involves a complicated formula.

Which she can give you, if you philo-types aren’t afraid of numbers!

77*3=231. Subtract temperature of room from that. Subtract temperature of flour. Substract 25 degrees, the friction of the average home mixture.

That is the temperature your water needs to be.

“The other thing is yeast” she says.

Active dry yeast, needs to be put into about 4oz of 110 degree water. Subtract that 4oz from water. Or instant yeast he can add that directly to the dry ingredients.

If for the some reason you are using compressed yeast, soften it in 2x weight of 100 degree water. And, again, subtract water from water in recipe.

Old dough is a whole ‘nother story. That is a whole different process. That works for flour, yeast, and water. Master that part first before trying anything else.

And, she emphasizes, that includes adding olive oil.xzhj

Comment by justsomeguy on 2010?01?26? 6:30 pm


So, I may be completely contradicting what everyone above has said, but I am no scientist. I don’t like measuring and I never stick strictly to a recipe. However, I make all of our bread now, so I don’t think that I’m too off base.

What yeast are you using? The packets of instant yeast that you find aren’t so good. I bought a huge bag (similar to coffee grounds) of active dry yeast. It doesn’t stay good forever on the shelf so check the date. (You can keep it forever in the freezer though.) When you put the yeast in the warm water and you let it sit for a few minutes, if it isn’t kind of foamy on top, toss it and do it again.

Second, don’t use anything metal. Don’t mix it in a metal bowl, don’t use metal dough hooks, and definitely don’t mix your yeast into the water with a metal spoon. I don’t know why, but it has never worked for me.

Comment by Cameron on 2010?02?1? 9:50 am

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